Route descriptions (22 August 2007)
Upper East face topo (9 July 2007)
West face topo (-)
Approach: Approach through the notch between the Djin and the Charlatan. Chimney down and follow the gully to the base of the Wizard. It is also possible to rappel in from the Spooky anchors on top of the Charlatan followed by a scramble down to and rappel from the large tree at the base of Stars and Stripes Forever.
Descent: Rap from the summit to a rap station in the notch between the Wizard and the Sorcerer. Rap from there to the ground on the west side.
A. Lethargy, 5.10b R
P1 (5.10a): Climb the fingers and hands crack to a bolted belay.
P2 (5.10b R): Continue up shallow cracks, past a bolt and diagonal up left (poor pro) towards the anchor in the notch. The two pitches can be linked.
Gear to 2.5".
B. Northwest Chimney, 5.7
C. unknown, 5.10c
Sport climb that climbs the face right of the arete. Reaching the first bolt is 5.10a R due to suspect thin gear behind a flake. It may be possible to reach the first bolt by climbing up from the left but that looks like 5.11.
D. Yellow Brick Road, 5.9
P1 (5.9): From the bush climb up and traverse right to the crack. Climb up the crack as it gradually widens. Belay at a small stance, or better, link with P2.
P2 (5.9): Climb the wide fists and OW crack to a ledge. There are many face features, very little offwidth technique is required.
P3 (5.9?): Go out left from the ledge and climb the thin right facing corner to below the cap on top of the Wizard. Pull through a small roof and climb to the top.
Emerald City Variation (5.6 R): From the P1 belay, traverse out right and climb up knobs to the ledge.
Gear to 5".
E. Just Layback and Relax, 5.10+ X
This route may be protectable using large cams.
F. The Zombie, aka The Curse, 5.10d
G. Detour, 5.10b
H. The Demon, aka Spellbound, 5.10
Starts on the other side of the Wizard.
Approach: Descend via the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Or descend via the gully between the Magician and the Djin. Keep left near the base of the rocks between the Djin and Wizard.
Descent:
A. The Demon, aka Spellbound, 5.10
5.10 offwidth on P1.
B. The Caduceus, 5.12 R
Two pitches. Arete.
C. Nearer My God to Thee, 5.10b R
D. Pentagram, 5.9 R
Variation to Nearer My God to Thee. Traverses left lower.
E. unknown, 5.11
Wizard southeast arete.
F. Golden Needles, 5.11 X
Slippery water groove.
G. Shiver Me Timbers, 5.12c
Double cracks. Extra #1-1.5 Friends.
H. unknown, ?
Right facing corner with bolts on the upper east face.
Approach: Either climb to the top of the Wizard from the west side and rap down to the big ledge. Or climb up from the west side to the notch between the Wizard and Sorcerer. The chimney is one option, it is also possible to climb the broken features on the uphill side (Sorcerer side) of the chimney. The climbing is mostly easy to moderate 5th class. See the Wizard West Face topo. Or climb a route up the southeast face of the Wizard.
Descent: Climb to the top of the Wizard either along the arete above the routes, or up the corner on the right side of the face. Rapel as shown on the West Face topo.
A. The Force, 5.11b
RPs, draws. Looks like old 1/4" bolts.
B. Magnum Force, 5.11c
RPs, draws. Looks like old 1/4" bolts.