Route descriptions (22 August 2007)
Left side topo (-)
Approach: From the Sorcerer/Witch notch, contour around the north side of the Witch and Warlock, dropping down to the saddle between the Warlock and Voodoo Dome. Descend the gully, staying on the left, close to Voodoo Dome. Traverse along the base of Voodoo Dome. Alternatively, approach from the road below.
Descent: Top out and scramble down a notch on the north side just east of the summit.
A. First Coming, 5.8
Four or five pitches.
B. Black Dudes on Welfare, 5.10
Five pitches.
C. Dihedral Variation, 5.10
Two pitches.
D. Mama Told Me Not to Come, 5.11
Two pitches.
E. White Punks on Dope, 5.9
P1 (5.8?): Climb the left lacing corner hand crack. Climb it until the angle eases off and belay.
P2 (5.9?): Climb lower angled cracks to a steep section. Pull through a roof (a 3" piece is helpful here) and climb a little higher to belay at the start of a chimney.
P3 (5.7?): Scramble and climb up the chimney to a large ledge.
P4 (5.9): Climb the sustained fingers corner then switch to a wide crack that leads to a ledge. Wide gear, up to 5", may be useful here but the climbing is lower angle. Gear: extra pieces in the 1/4-3/4" range, optional 4-5" gear for the top section.
P5 (5.8): Climb up the arete (or the left facing corner?). At the top begin face climbing to the right and up past three bolts to a bolt anchor on a large ledge across the face. Gear: a few thin pieces, draws.
P6 (5.7?): There are various options for the last pitch. All end at the trees on the summit. The easiest option is to go straight up from the bolt anchor, climb the flake until it begins to go right, at which point it is possible to face climb straight up. Another option is a crack system to the left. Start up the crack then switch to the right crack and follow it to the top (5.9/5.10-?).
Gear to 3".
F. Random Neural Firing, 5.9
G. Voodoo Chile, 5.9
H. Dihedral Grope, 5.9
Offwidth, six pitches.
I. Crocodile's Head, 5.8
Three pitches.
J. Jolly Roger, 5.10
Two pitches.
K. Crossbones, 5.10
L. The Skull, 5.11+
Five pitches.
M. Millenium Falcon, 5.13b
N. The Emperor, aka Pea Soup, 5.12a
O. The Dark Side, 5.12+
Many wired nuts.
P. Aurora Austrialus, 5.12a
Five bolts.
Q. Aurora Borealus, 5.12
R. Double Jeopardy, 5.10d/5.11a
Four pitches.
S. Supernova, 5.12b
Arete, two bolts.
T. The Light Side, 5.11a/b
Corner.
U. Broken Arrow, 5.11a
Prow of small block, four bolts.
V. Unnamed, 5.10
Left of The Ewok. Face, two bolts.
W. The Ewok, 5.9
Crack with pod in middle of face.
X. Pizza The Hut, 5.10d
Right arete, five bolts.
Y. School's Out, 5.10
Two bolts to crack.
Z. Lessons from Lechlinski, 5.10b R
Three bolts to diagonal crack.
AA. Bad Moon Rising, 5.10
AB. Summer Sojourn, 5.7
Five pitches.
AC. Brother Wolf, 5.10d R
Start on Left Snort, then left past bolts.
AD. Left Snort, 5.9
Six pitches.
AE. Sister Moon, 5.10c
Two and a half pitches.
AF. Jedi Master
Var. 5.10a, on p5 left up crack/chimny, through roof.
AG. The Carcass, 5.10
Two and a half pitches.
AH. Dr. Blood's Coffin, 5.7
Three to four pitches.