Route descriptions (10 April 2007)
South face topo (-)
Approach: Descend via the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Or descend via the gully between the Magician and the Djin. Keep left near the base of the rocks between the Djin and Wizard.
Descent: All descents are by rappel.
A. Jughead, 5.10c R
Runout 5.10c up high.
B. Danse Macabre, aka Fantasia, 5.9
Start in a flare with a thin crack at the back, on the left side of the lowest point of the Sorcerer's Apprentice. Climb the flare (5.10a?) and continue up the face past one bolt and left to the arete. Follow the arete past two more bolts and one tied off knob to finish the pitch at the belay for the first pitch of Broomsticks.
Gear: several pieces to 1/2" for the start and the end, three quickdraws and a sling for a knob tieoff.
C. Broomsticks, 5.10a
P1 (5.10a): Start in the next flare right of the start of Danse Macabre. Climb up the corner and continue up the left leaning groove above to a two bolt anchor just left of the arete. Mostly insecure climbing up a wide groove with a thin crack in the back. Gear to 1/2", with one each to 5".
P2 (5.9): Follow the left side of the arete up to a large scoop. Clip the bolt above and continue up past two more bolts before moving left to a groove. Tie off a knob and continue up past a thin crack to reach the belay. Gear: a few draws and some thin pieces for the top of the pitch.
D. Love Potion #9, 5.10a
P1 (5.10a): Same start as Broomsticks. Climb up the corner for about 20 ft. There are then several options. The easiest is to continue up and left along the crack until it is possible to climb up and right onto the scooped and ribbed face (5.8). A harder alternative is to traverse right from the crack directly into the scoops and ribs (5.10+?, reach dependent). Climb up the face past 5 bolts. Gear: a few pieces to 2" for the start of the pitch, draws.
P2 (5.10a): Follow the arete past four bolts then go around to the right, past a knob and right and up towards a crack and the belay. Gear: draws and a sling for a knob tieoff.
P3 (5.8R): Follow the crack up easier ground to an exposed and poorly protected arete that leads to the top. Gear to 2" and slings for knob tieoffs.
E. Dave Wonderly Route, 5.10/5.11
P1 (): Not climbed.
P2 (): Not climbed. Climb up to meet Love Potion #9.
Approach: Descend via the gully between the Sorcerer and the Witch. Or descend via the gully between the Magician and the Djin. Keep left near the base of the rocks between the Djin and Wizard.
Descent: Rap.
A. Piranha, 5.12c
The following route description is by Michael Reardon. Sport climbing at the Needles? It's true. This ultra classic was done in true style and the altitude will definitely be a factor in the send. Starting right of Love Potion, shimmy up the 5.7 offwidth and clip the first bolt. Then head right for another bolt past sharp crimpers. Push farther right for a rest, then jump back left and follow the bolt line up. No gear needed, but be careful of the loose block just below the anchor.
B. Parasite, 5.13a
Bolts.