Route descriptions (22 August 2007)
East face topo (-)
Lower east face topo (5 September 2006)
West face topo (-)
Fire Wall topo (1 September 2006)
Approach: Rap from the Spooky anchor on the top of the Charlatan. From the notch, scramble down to the west face routes. Alternately, approach through the notch between the Djin and the Charlatan. Chimney down and follow down the gully, staying right on the rocks. When about level with the Charlatan/Sorcerer notch, descend off the rocks, cross the gully and traverse towards the notch along the base of the Charlatan.
Descent: From the top of the Sorcerer, rap from the rap station at the end of the large ledge nearest the Charlatan. A 100 ft rap plus some downclimbing will reach the Charlatan/Sorcerer notch. From there climb out via Spooky, go left along the base of the Charlatan and up the gully between the Charlatan and Djin, or rappel into the gully east of the Charlatan and Sorcerer and hike out the gully to the Witch/Charlatan notch.
A. unknown, ?
Two bolts on the face along the rappel route from the Sorcerer summit.
B. Pinhead, 5.10d
Climb up the seam, through the small roof (5.10d) and continue up the shallow flared grooves above. Pass another small roof and continue up to the rappel anchor. Looks tricky to protect.
Gear to 1", many thin and RPs.
C. unknown, 5.11?
Listed in one of the marked up guidebooks. Same start as Pinhead but traverse right under the roof before following a crack straight up the face past a bolt. Finish up the bolted arete.
Gear: thin?
D. Slight Of Hand, 5.10a
P1 (5.10a): Climb up and left along the corner then follow the corner to the straight up crack. Climb past a right facing corner and belay below the large block to the right.
P2 (5.9): Climb the left facing corner to where it becomes a flare and continue to the top.
Gear to 2".
E. The Raven, 5.11b
P1 (5.11b): Start up a small left facing corner, or use the start of Stars and Stripes Forever. Climb up the thin right facing corner and where possible step right into the crack on the face. Continue up to the belay.
P2 (5.9): -
Gear to 1/2", including RPs and tiny gear, for first pitch only.
F. Stars And Stripes Forever, 5.9
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| Erika on pitch 1 of Stars and Stripes Forever (5.8) |
G. Fuck The Rod Broke, 5.9
Listed in one of the marked up guidebooks. Climb the flare behind the left side of the large flake. Alternate finish to Stars and Stripes Forever.
H. Northwest Salvage, 5.7
Climb flakes and cracks right of Stars and Stripes Forever. No topo.
I. various routes, 5.6
Various options exist to climb up to the Sorcerer/Wizard notch right of Stars and Stripes Forever. From the notch to the summit of the Sorcerer is easy fifth class. No topo.
Approach: From the Sorcerer/Witch notch, scramble down the gully and traverse to the base of the Sorcerer. It is also possible to climb down the gully east of the Charlatan but that is more difficult.
Descent: From the top of the Sorcerer, rappel from the rap station at the end of the large ledge nearest the Charlatan. A 100 ft rappel plus some downclimbing will reach the Charlatan/Sorcerer notch. From there climb out via Spooky, go left along the base of the Charlatan and up the gully between the Charlatan and Djin, or rappel into the gully east of the Charlatan and Sorcerer.
A. Scirocco, 5.12a
Fifteen bolts on P1. Second pitch has 25 ft runout on arete.
B. Westwind, 5.11c
C. Don Juan Wall, 5.11b
D. Ice Pirates, 5.11b
E. Thin Ice, 5.10b
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| Jared on pitch 1 of Thin Ice (5.10b) | Rebecca on pitch 1 of Thin Ice (5.10b) |
F. Atlantis, 5.11c
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| Joy on pitch 1 of Atlantis (5.10c) | Alex on pitch 3 of Atlantis (5.11c) | Climber on pitch 3 of Atlantis (5.11c) |
G. Aid variation start to Atlantis, A2+
Freed at 5.13 in 2005? Climb the corner then traverse left on the face to reach the seam.
H. Bon Voyage, 5.11+
I. Lost At Sea, 5.11a
Approach from Atlantis or rapel in from the top. Climb up the thin flake/crack to a bolted anchor. The flake becomes thin and fragile near the top. At the end of the pitch it is possible to traverse over to First Aid from the top via 5.12 face climbing.
J. First Aid, aka Crimson Sky, 5.11a
Approach: Follow the base of the Fire Wall down and round towards the Sorcerer. There is an alcove with two chimneys. The right one goes up towards Wailing Banshees, the left up to a series of blocks and ledges that end atop a pillar at the start of Davy Jones Locker.
For the unknown route (A) and Devil's Dinette, approach by traversing left along bushy ledges from just below the base of the Fire Wall. Climb up an exposed slab to reach an alcove and the base of the climbs. There is a squeeze chimney on the right that leads up to the top of the pillar where Davy Jones Locker starts.
Descent: Rap into the gully from slings. A single 60 m rope will reach the ground. The rap down the face is longer.
A. unknown
There is some old gear in the corner that divides the Wizard and Sorcerer, but the route is unknown.
B. Devil's Dinette, 5.10a R
Start up the flare and then step right to follow a couple of thin cracks. Pull past a small roof and continue up nice hands. Follow the crack up and right as it thins to fingers and some face climbing. There is some lose rock. At the small roof on the left, step out left onto the face and climb up knobs to the anchor. The best option here appears to be to traverse up and left to a hidden edge (visible from below) and then up from there to lower angle ground. There is no gear after leaving the crack, though it may be possible to sling some knobs. A fall from near the anchor would be serious and might even result in hitting the pillar that Davy Jones Locker starts from. This route might be X because of that.
Gear to 3-4". Wide gear only needed for the start. Double rope rapel to descend to the start, single rope rap to reach the top of the pillar where Davy Jones Locker starts. It may also be possible to continue climbing up.
C. Jones Crusher, 5.11+
D. Iron Maiden, 5.12+
Thin and hard to protect.
E. Davy Jones' Locker, 5.12b or 5.10d A1
Climb the right leaning hand crack to a small roof. Follow the crack through the roof and then trend up and left on the face to reach the anchor. The hand crack is 5.10d, the face above can be aided at A1 by following the thin crack.
Gear to 3" with extra in the 1-2" range and a few small pieces.
F. Duty Now For The Future, 5.11d
G. Pieces of Eight, 5.12c
H. The Avenger, 5.13a/b
Bolts.
I. Wailing Banshees, 5.11a/b
Approach: From the Sorcerer/Witch notch, scramble down the gully and continue down past the base of the east wall of the Sorcerer.
Descent: Walkoff.
A. Spontaneous Combustion, 5.12c/d
B. Pyrotechnics, 5.12c/d
It is possible that the traverse in from the right to start is in fact incorrect and that the two bolts are merely stray bolts.
C. Pyromania, 5.13b
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| Hristo on Pyromania (5.13b) | Hristo on Pyromania (5.13b) | Hristo on Pyromania (5.13b) |
A. unknown, ?
Left side of the face. Nine or more bolts.
B. unknown, ?
Middle of the face. At east 5 bolts.
C. unknown, ?
Wide crack, starts with short offwidth.
D. unknown, ?
Bolted southeast arete. There may be two routes here.
This wall is below and left of Davy Jones Locker and Devil's Dinette.
Approach: From the Sorcerer/Witch notch, scramble down the gully and traverse to the base of the Sorcerer. It is also possible to climb down the gully east of the Charlatan but that is more difficult. Continue down the gully past the Fire Wall.
Descent:
A. unknown, ?
Right trending crack. There appears to be fixed gear and slings part way up.
B. unknown, ?
Wide crack on right side.
