Route descriptions (22 August 2007)
West face topo (-)
Lower west face detail topo (-)
Upper west face detail topo (-)
Approach: From the saddle before the Magician, head right and downhill along a poorly marked climber's trail. The trail leads to the base of Black Magic. Traversing higher up may be difficult due to rocky sections.
Descent: Top out at the watch tower and walk off from there, or rapel into the gully on the south side from the rap station below the tower. Observe tower closures times and use the rap station if the tower is closed to visitors.
A. Liquid Sky, 5.11c or 5.11a A0
Most likely still has old 1/4" bolts. May be R.
B. Harlem Shuffle, 5.11 A0 R/X
C. West Side Story, 5.11
D. Double Trouble, 5.11+
Double ropes recommended.
E. Shitfire, 5.10
Overhanging left facing corner, fingers to offwidth. Two pitches. Gear to 4"?
F. Great White Direct, 5.10
G. Sidewalk Magic, A4
H. Black Magic, 5.7/5.8
The recommended start to Magic Dragon. Start in a left leaving flare/chimney. Climb the ramp and crack up to a corner. Continue up to a large ledge with trees and bushes. A 60 m rope will just reach the ledge. Rap or continue up Magic Dragon.
Gear to 3".
I. Silence of the Clams, 5.10
Thin crack to featured face.
J. Magic Dragon, 5.8
P1 (): Not climbed. An alternate start is slightly to the left, just right of Silence of the Clams. From the ledge, climb up into a wide crack/slot and follow it until it goes off to the right. Continue straight up the face to the large ledge. Getting off the ledge felt like 5.10 climbing and gear was poor. The slot was easy but I don't remember if there was any gear. Move the belay to the left end of the ledge for P2.
P2 (5.9?): Climb the left facing corner, passing a bulge, and belay where there is a ledge to the right. This is where Twist of Fate starts.
P3 (): Continue up the cracks and flakes left of the corner. Belay at the notch.
P4 (): Climb the easy but unprotected slab to the large right facing corner. It is possible to get a small cam in about 2/3 of the way up.
P5 (): Climb the right facing corner. Near the top, climb out to the left and continue up then right on the face past one bolt to a two bolt anchor (I think a 60 m rope will reach the bolt anchor, if not belay at the top of the crack before launching up the face).
P6 (): Face climb up and slightly right aiming for a small ledge with a crack and small bush.
P7 (): Continue up and trend left to reach the base of the headwall. Either belay here or link with P8, which will require simulclimbing.
P8 (easy): Walk left along the ledge below the headwall until below the watch tower.
P9 (): Climb up a short corner to a ledge to the right, then straight up through the blocks below the watch tower. Climb out via the tower, or rappel from the rap station below the tower. An alternate, wild finish goes straight up the end of the rock fin west of the tower.
Gear to 3".
K. Strange Brew, 5.8
P1 (): Not climbed.
P2 (): Not climbed.
P3 (): Not climbed.
P4-5 (): Follow Magic Dragon, pitches 3-4.
P6 (): Instead of climbing the right facing corner (Magic Dragon), step around to the left and follow a finger crack. From there, continue up Magic Dragon.
L. Twist of Fate, 5.10a
Finger crack. No anchor on top.
M. Siege of Troy, 5.8
Climb the first two pitches of Strange Brew to reach the start, or traverse in on the next ledge up from the top of P2 of Magic Dragon. Climb the steep wide crack then chimney up and climb out on the right to reach the top. No anchor on top.
Gear to 3".
There are two routes located on a block near Liquid Sky. Approach from the base of Liquid Sky.
1. Reaganomics, 5.9
2. Hot for Teacher, 5.11+
One bolt at the base, two bolts at the top.
Approach: Hike downhill along the base of the Magician from the saddle on the east side.
Descent: Top out at the watch tower and walk off from there, or rapel into the gully on the south side from the rap station below the tower. Observe tower closures times and use the rap station if the tower is closed to visitors.
A. Heart of Gold, 5.10
B. The Dulldrills, 5.10d R
Poor bolts?
C. Lumpy the Fish, 5.10a X
Third piece is a fixed copperhead.
D. Hocus Focus, 5.11a or 5.10b A0
Double ropes recommended.
E. Poof, 5.7
Three pitches.
F. Frustration with the Redhead, 5.10/5.11