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Needles Mini Guide: Djin

Route Descriptions and Topos in PDF format

Route descriptions (-)
Southwest face topo (-)

Djin Needle: Southwest Face

Approach: Routes A through D are on a small face reached by scrambling up the northwest side of the Djin and crossing to the south side through a notch just left of the summit face. The top of the rock can be reached by climbing up the north side.

Routes E and F are reached by hiking down the gully between the Magician and Djin.

Descent: For routes A through D, downclimb the north side from the summit.

NOTE: The precise lines of routes A through D are not known. The lines shown on the topo are best guesses based on the Moser, Vernon and Paul guidebook information.

A. Severed Ties, 5.10b
One bolt placed after the first ascent. This may be the arete immediately left of the right facing corner, where there is one bolt.

B. Sundance, 5.10b

C. Alladin Sane, 5.10+

D. Hangman, 5.9-

E. Song of the Lorelei, 5.10+/5.11-
Four pitches. Crux is leaning squeeze. Topo and location of belays is approximate. Gear to 4".

F. Candelabrum, 5.7
Four pitches. Route line and belays shown on topo are very approximate.

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