Route descriptions (22 August 2007)
East face topo (15 November 2009)
South face topo (-)
West face topo (12 September 2007)
Approach: Scramble and chimney down through the notch between the Djin and Charlatan.
Descent: Walk off the top to the north.
A. Valley Guy, 5.10a
|
| Alex on Valley Guy (5.10a) |
B. Northwest Route, 5.7/5.8
C. Detour, 5.10b
Vegetated crack in the back of a corner.
D. The Prescription, 5.11+ R
Retrobolted.
E. Lady of the Needles, 5.7
|
|
| Mei on Lady of the Needles (5.7) | Mei on Lady of the Needles (5.7) |
Approach: Contour around the base from the West Face to the notch between the Charlatan and the Sorcerer. Stay close to the rock. Alternatively, rap into the notch from the anchor at the top of Spooky.
Descent: Walk off the top to the north.
A. Spooky, 5.9
|
|
| Erika on pitch 1 (5.8) | Climbers on pitch 2 (5.9) |
B. Gemstone, 5.10c
Climb the slab and up a short right facing corner. Step around right to a finger crack and follow it up to the ledge. Climb the arete on the right to a bolted belay. Finish up Spooky.
Gear to 1" plus draws.
Approach: From the Sorcerer/Witch notch, scramble down the gully, traverse across towards the Charlatan and scramble back up to the base of the Charlatan. It is also possible to climb down the gully east of the Charlatan but that is more difficult.
Descent: Walk off the top to the north.
A. Horrorscope, 5.10a R
B. Bad Fortune, 5.11c or 5.10 A1
P1 (5.11c): Climb through some lose blocks to reach a narrowing crack. Above, the crack runs out and the slab crux is protected by 3 bolts. Continue up the right facing corner to a three bolt belay.
P2 (5.10a): Continue up the corner. When a ledge appears on the left, traverse out left and continue up a second crack, traversing back right to a bolted anchor shared with Fancy Free. From here, follow Fancy Free to the top.
It is possible to continue up the corner on P2 (instead of going left). As the gear runs out, the climbing eases up a bit, then it is possible to reach right and join Fancy Free. This variation is probably a little harder than 5.10a.
Gear: thin to 2" with a couple of larger pieces for the start of P1.
C. Fancy Free, 5.10b
P1 (5.9): Climb a broken crack to a ledge on the right. Beware of large loose flakes at the ledge.
P2 (5.10b): Continue up through beautiful sustained thin hands to fingers and belay at a bolt anchor off to the left.
P3 (5.9): Climb a short finger crack (5.9) then up through blocks to a ledge. From the ledge angle right up a thin crack that widens to hands. There is one anchor bolt at the top and a 1" crack.
An alternate option is to go right at the top of P2, along a ramp and climb up behind large blocks to belay amongst them. Climb back left to rejoin P3, or do an alternate right finish from the top of the blocks up a right facing corner. Hands to fingers, 5.10b, small gear needed.
Gear to 3", optional larger piece for P3.
D. Superstition, 5.11+
RPs.
E. Pins and Needles, 5.12+
The lower section goes over a small ledge in which you can get a couple of small cams in. Then through some small knobs and small ramp (11) past 2 bolts, then over small horizontal crack past another bolt, then up to left of left facing corner to a spot for another cam (10). Then follow final 3 bolts up a very stiff no fingers seam on your left(12+) to blocky area above then trend right, follow up to belay ledge, careful of loose blocks. First ascent by Gary Sullivan, Herb Laeger and Rico Miledi, 27 August 2006. Description provided by Gary Sullivan.
F. Persistence, 5.11+
Two pitches.
G. Gobsmacked, 5.10+ (Gear to 3", draws)
P1: Not climbed.
P2 (5.10d): Follow the flake up and right to a crack that traverses right. Traverse right to a straight up crack and corner. Climb that to easier ground and the top. Walkoff.
Gear to 3". Gear to 6" needed if not using the two bolts on the wide section at the start of P2.
